Gua-Guas

First, for those of you who have never lived in the Dominican - a gua-gua (pronounced "gwah-gwah") is a local bus, usually falling apart but with ornate curtains and tassles that put the king of Persia to shame. Most people don't have their own cars so these buses with cryptic routes are usually ones easiest way to get from point A - point B. But as with most things here, strike me as wrapped in a web of idiosyncracies.

Riding gua guas in the Republic Dominicana is a perfect encapsulation of so many things I can attach the adjective "Dominican" into.

First, you have the method of charging. The standard is – pack as many people on the bus and have the cobrador (person who charges you - driver's right hand man) stand with the door open, screaming the bus'destinations while driving down the highway – just in case there are any stragglers you can make a few extra pesos off of. (There are few bus companies I know of that charge BEFORE getting on the guagua and its an interesting business decision they have made. Banking on the fact that there is a small traveler population that will patronize their company thanks to the "lesser- hassle" pre-trip payment.) Yet what really surprises me - is how against the Dominican grain this thought process is.

In a place where poverty is rampant – lack of security (financial, health, personal) drives many to live in the extreme present. I had very insightful taxi driver comment to me "nunca piensan en manana"( they never think about tomorrow) regarding other taxi drivers who rip you off, the reality being if they charged me a fair – even discounted price – I'd give them repeat service – and they'd probably make more money that way. But often, as today is all one is assured of, today is all that matters.

Second, its hot and packed! On average the typical "mini-bus" with a 32 passenger capacity (and these are NOT middle America extra wide seats, they're probably max 14'' across) – is filled to the brim with 40+ passengers (NOT counting small children who ride on parents knees and aren't charged a fee – this applies to any kid who looks under 10.) Once all the actual seats are filled up – boards magically appear that are placed over the aisles to create rows of 5 people. Unfortunately- I've yet to find a gua gua company that will charge a slightly higher rate to ride with some elbow room.

Third, gua guas are usually extremely loud – between the blasting bachata music and 4 people singing along with it, to the cobrador's hollering, noise of a beaten up bus roaring at 50mph down pot-holed roads and the general din of Dominicans using their "indoor voices" – talking on their cellphones, preaching or arguing over everything from politics to how to cure the gripe (the flu).

haha - ok, I'm sorry I know it seems like I'm just ragging on my dominican companeros - but if you read my earlier post about the DR teaching me to laugh - I hope you know that I say these things to help me stay sane. I have moments where I feel integrated and don't blink an eye as the car I'm riding in pulls out and stops in T-bone ready position as oncoming traffic continues barreling towards us at 45mph...I know they'll stop. But other times - I'm reminded I'm americana and still show vestiges of my 21 years of life spent in the U.S.A.

Anyway - I hope you enjoy this slice of life. For those of you that have spent time in the DR, I hope this brings back fond memories of those calientes in the middle of July that seemed like they'd NEVER make it to San Pedro and "PLEASE! Can we really make one more stop 15 feet away from where we made our last one!"

For those of you who haven't had the joy of riding gua-guas...hope you come visit soon!